Domenica Marchetti

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Corn: A Story With More Than One Kernel of Truth

Posted:

09/22/09

Filed Under:Health Care, Woman Up, Culture

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After my most recent rant -- I mean post -- on cheap food, I received a very nice response from Audrae Erickson, the president of the Corn Refiners Association, seeking to clear up any confusion about government subsidies and corn, and to allay any concerns about the sweet nature of corn sweetener.

Ms. Erickson posted a short reply in the comments section of my original post, and then followed up with a more detailed reply in an e-mail. Her message reminded me that there are always (at least) two sides to a story.

For instance, among the points she made is this one: "Manufacturers of corn sweeteners do not receive government subsidies. Our industry buys corn on the open market at the prevailing market price."

She went on: "The U.S. government provides support to a number of farm commodities in order to ensure a stable farm economy and a reliable food supply during periods of market volatility and adverse weather. These payments are paid directly to farmers as a 'safety net.' Manufacturers of corn sweeteners and other food ingredients do not receive such payments."

I have no doubt that what she says is true. And yet, there is also a kernel of truth to Michael Pollan's argument in "The Omnivore's Dilemma," in which he describes (in great detail) industrial farming policies that have led to a vicious cycle of plunging corn prices, government subsidies and increased output of the grain. "The more bushels each farmer produces, the lower prices go, giving another turn to the perverse spiral of overproduction."

Who benefits? Pollan asks: "Though those subsidy checks go to the farmer (and represent nearly half of net farm income today), what the Treasury is really subsidizing are the buyers of all that cheap corn."

In her message, Ms. Erickson brought up another important point: that nutritionally, high-fructose corn syrup and sucrose (table sugar) are indistinguishable (I never suggested there was a difference). She referred to statements made by the American Dietetic Association and the American Medical Association saying, in essence, the same thing.

But, in fact, her point misses the point. The problem is not the nutritional value (such as it is) of corn sweeteners vs. sugar. Empty calories are empty calories. The problem is that since high-fructose corn syrup was introduced into our (processed) food supply in the 1980s, our annual consumption of it has continued to rise. At the same time, our consumption of other sugars and sweeteners, such as honey and maple syrup, has also increased.

Last month, the American Heart Association urged women to limit their added sugar intake to 100 calories per day (about six teaspoons) and men to 150 calories a day (nine teaspoons). According to the association, Americans now consume far more than that -- about 22 teaspoons' worth of added sugar per day.

It's easy to see why. It's in nearly everything. In describing the "many functional benefits" of high-fructose corn syrup, Ms. Erickson said, "it retains moisture in bran cereals, helps keep breakfast and energy bars moist, maintains consistent flavors in beverages and keeps ingredients evenly dispersed in condiments. High fructose corn syrup enhances spice and fruit flavors in yogurts and marinades. In addition to its excellent browning characteristics for breads and baked goods, it is a highly fermentable nutritive sweetener and prolongs product freshness."

That is one promiscuous ingredient. For the record, the yogurt I buy contains two ingredients: milk and live yogurt cultures. If I want to "spice" it up I sprinkle cinnamon on it, and if I want it flavored with fruit I toss in some frozen blueberries.

Ms. Erickson also noted that "many foods only contain small amounts of high fructose corn syrup. For example, it would take 20 servings of spaghetti sauce or 50 servings of salad dressing to reach the Institute of Medicine's recommended daily allowance of added sugars from high fructose corn syrup."

My spaghetti sauce, on the other hand, contains no high-fructose corn syrup, and is almost as easy to make as opening a jar of the processed stuff. Here is the recipe, adapted from my first cookbook, "The Glorious Soups and Stews of Italy" (Chronicle Books, 2006):

Basic Tomato Sauce

(Makes enough to sauce 1 pound of pasta)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2½ pounds peeled, seeded and chopped plum tomatoes or 1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes

2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed with the flat side of a knife blade

½ teaspoon kosher or sea salt, or to taste

5 fresh basil leaves, shredded or torn into small pieces

In a large, deep skillet, warm the oil and garlic over medium heat. Use a wooden spoon to press down on the garlic to release its flavor and then swirl the pan to infuse the oil. When the garlic has begun to release its fragrance (after about 2 minutes), carefully pour in the tomatoes (watch for spattering) and stir to coat with the oil. Season with a little salt, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring the tomatoes to a simmer. When the juices start bubbling, reduce the heat to medium and let the tomatoes simmer, uncovered, for 30 to 35 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and the oil has separated from the tomatoes. Stir the sauce occasionally as it is cooking and reduce the heat to medium-low if it is simmering too fiercely.

Remove the sauce from the heat and stir in the basil. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt if necessary. Use immediately or let cool to room temperature and store in the refrigerator for up to 3 days or in the freezer for up to 3 months.

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Domenica Marchetti

Domenica Marchetti is the author of Big Night In: More Than 100 Wonderful Recipes for Feeding Family and Friends Italian-Style and The Glorious Soups and Stews of Italy... more

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garry402

8:36AM Sep 22nd 2009

Oh, never mind, I thought this article was about David Corn.

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Eeggplant

3:19AM Sep 25th 2009

2 thoughts on the high fructose corn syrup.

First, too many people are saying things like "you'd have to eat 5 servings of pasta sauce" to get the recommended limit. Wait....it's in the sauce, in the salad dressing, in the breakfast cereal, in the toasted bread, in the jam, in the lunch bread, etc. It's EVERYWHERE. While it is very versatile, it is too prevalent. Reduce your intake of processed foods and you will, by default, reduce your intake of corn syrup.

Second, consider the fact that 55% (or more) of the corn grown in the U.S. is genetically modified. What happens when that corn is processed and turned into high fructose corn syrup? Please don't tell me that it isn't a problem because "you can't prove a negative." There are no long term studies on GMO foods. There are more heart problems with HFCS than with Cane Sugar. Ever wonder why?

BTW, your sauce recipe is good. Could use twice the garlic and no salt however. Plenty of salt in the canned tomatoes. :))

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